Saturday, September 22, 2007

Road trip recap

Yesterday, we loaded up a van (thanks for organizing that guys!) and went on a road trip. The first stop was 30 Km South of Mysore at a small town named Somnathpur (see picture on left from travelblog.org). I had no idea where we were going, and neither did one of my friends, who ended up taking a road trip to temples she had already visited a month ago. On our way, she mentioned how road trips are very different here in India because you never get on an open road. Its true. In the states, you drive through town and then suddenly its only open road in front of you and you think, "Wow, here we go!" In India, you are driving slowly down roads, through ride fields, through back allies in obscure towns. I couldn't help but wonder how anyone could find there way to the same places we were going because there were so many unmarked ally ways that seemed to make up a substantial number of roads we travelled. The roads aren't always paved, are often muddy, and include many passersby and obstructions with a heart beat or many heart beats if you get caught in a heard of goats. I noticed on the windshield that there was a sticker that declared that this vehicle was adjusted to not go faster than 60. Really, it could not go faster than 60. Not that there was much of an opportunity with the cows and the muddy holes.
Somnathpur is the name of the very small town that people travel to in order to see the Keshava Temple. When we saw a sign that marked the entrance, my temple-veteran companion said, "we took a rickshaw here and back." The rest of us stared at her in horror. When she added that there were three of them crammed in the back, she had to scrape us off the floor from the impact of her words. Immediately after we got out of the bus, our bodies stretching into mangled standing positions from sitting for so long, we were surrounded by children asking for money and selling souvenirs. I didn't buy anything and felt terrible about it.
Entrance to the temples was 2 rupees for Indians, and the equivalent of $2 US dollars for everyone else. In their conversion, this equalled 100 rupees. (I read that the rupee has fallen again to 40:1 US, when I got here it was 38:1). Inside the gates was a large manicured lawn and a very large stone wall that looked like the outside of a fortress. I could see people going inside, so I followed. Shoes off at the steps. Give ticket to man holding out hand. Walk inside.
Temples are like volcanoes. They can be active, dormant, or extinct. An extinct temple is a temple you see that is completely abandoned. You have to look closely, however, because even if a building has gone to pieces, if there is still someone performing pujas, the temple is still active. An active temple is one in full use. People are coming and going, incense burning, music, etc. Dormant. That's a tricky one. I'll have to think about it. The temples we saw yesterday were extinct because for whatever reason, no one performs pujas there. People visit purely to see the architecture as it is in very good condition. Maybe a dormant temple is one that looks like it could still be used, but isn't at the moment.
A friend commented that the place did feel a bit empty and didn't hold the same sense of the spiritual for her that other active temples had. For me, monuments whether natural or man made almost always have a sense of the spiritual, if not because of the immense size of the undertaking, then for the intention behind it. Although, when we were sitting on a ledge surrounding the main temple, basking in its beauty, someone commented that the smell that everyone was complaining of was indeed urine coming from the puja rooms lining the ledge.
The next stop (not counting snack and pee stops) were the waterfalls. Yeah, I have no idea what they are called. We stood on a ledge, dodging monkeys, taking photos, eating strange side-of-the-road snacks, laughing at the signs, and staring at the waterfalls. They were beautiful but so far away. It seemed odd to have driven so far only to visit something that we couldn't actually interact with, only look at. If I couldn't touch it, was it even really there? Some journeys are like that.
I'm browsing the Rough Guide to South India, and in the Highlights section for Karnataka, it says that Mysore is the "sandalwood city". Guidebooks always talk about the sandalwood. I remember that once at an ashram in New York, I met someone who wouldn't stop about the sandalwood incense and that it was the best there and its all she uses and you can only get it there... I imagined Mysore overflowing with sandalwood. I imagined from day to night I'd be covered with the stuff and that after returning from New York, I'd carry the scent with me for at least 2 months, at least. I've seen some sandalwood, yes. I've seen some.
I had a new spot in led practice today with Saraswati, in the back by the women's dressing room. I realize this doesn't matter at all to the average reader, but to a veteran or current "Mysorian" you know what a big deal it is to try a new spot in the room. You see, every spot has its own energy. By the doors, there are people walking in and out which is quite distracting. OR maybe you're by a window and get a draft. Maybe you're where the carpets overlap and that is not fun. I try to avoid places with too much movement around them like breezes, or people, or doorways because I find they have too much "vata" which can be really distracting.
Since Sharath's last day, despite the few prophecies that he may return, he hasn't made any appearances in class. Nor has Guruji.

8 comments:

  1. It is a pity that you saw places and didn't get to know about them.

    The Somanthpur Keshava Temple is "extinct" as you call it because the main deity is defaced/ damaged by regilious vandals. And according to Hindu ritualistic practices - puja is not performed to damaged idols.

    The Falls that you saw are the Gaganachukki - Bharachukki falls - on the river Cauvery.

    Sandalwood - as is hyped - does not grow as bountifully as is made out to be. Being much sought after for its aroma - only when in powder state or when it is rubbed and made to secrete its oil - and being "grain-less" making it useful for carving - it is vandalised and indescriminately cut. It takes long years for new saplings to reach the state where it can be used. Sandalwood is now mostly talked about in the past tense or is found only in the deep jungles/forests of Karnataka.

    My request to you is that do not visit any place without trying to get some basic details of the place - It really helps avoid misunderstanding and miscommunication.

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  2. Thanks for the info, it is always great to learn more! We all take journeys for different reasons, no?

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  3. Also, the whole volcano thing was my interpretation of what I've experienced thus far in India. I am definetely not an expert on the subject. But what I did know was that the temple was not in use, but none of us knew why. That is really interesting what you mention about the condition of the deity and its affect on the whether or not there is puja. I didn't notice it to be damaged. Do you by any chance know how it was damaged? By this I mean, what is the physical evidence? And what specifically do you mean by "religious vandals"?

    Thanks! :)

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  4. I stand corrected. The main idol of the temple - Prasanna Chennakeshava - was stolen not defaced

    http://www.worldisround.com/articles/4428/text.html

    Yes, we all take journeys for different reasons. But would it not be great to know the reason for the journey? I personally feel that we need to know where we are going rather than just going.

    Same as in the practice of Ashtanga Yoga - the effects of the effort are always greater when you know what you are doing than just following the actions of the guru.

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  5. Is that really why the temple is not used for religious ceremonies? Because the idol was stolen?
    I read the article at wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chennakesava_Temple_at_Somanathapura) and it does not really mention that the temple is not used for puja. I'd be really interested to read about why it is not used and the circumstances surrounding it. If you come across anything, please forward the link!

    I agree with what you said in the last bit, but I think it is always balanced a bit with letting go...

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  6. 'Letting Go' as I understand is more to do with attachments and inhibitions towards materialistic world - not with 'letting go' "GNYANA" (Knowledge)

    Correct me if I am wrong.

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  7. I'm a bit of a control freak (I've relaxed quite a bit I think), and for me letting go can often mean letting go of this obsessive, maniac need I have at times to control every situation.

    For me, it has also manifested in letting go of attachments to my own ideas of what I can and can't do.

    I think it can apply to a lot of different aspects of being. That said, I agree in that I wouldn't apply it to letting go of knowledge.

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